R.I.A. Unplugged

The "culinary blacklist" and what it means to chefs

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If you are in Chicago, part of the food community and not living under a rock, you've likely heard of the new Culinary Blacklist that a few chefs are proposing after Mark Mendez blasted an unnamed wussy cook who dared to think working in a kitchen resembled a day in Giada's "Everyday Italian" kitchen.

As I read through Mark's post and the subsequent comments, a lot of things came to mind, but I won't bore you with them.

But what is important to chefs is not the lesson in Mark Mendez's post, it is the lesson of Mark Mendez's post. Mark, you see, has most definitely taken the reins of his image and is making a name for himself on his own.

Before he started tweeting and FBing and the like, Mark was not so well known in the food world outside of his chef friends. The restaurant where he worked was, sure, but Mark sorta wasn't. 

But then Mark started FBing. First thing I noticed, he friended EVERYONE. He friended so many journalists and chefs and food people that when I started building my networks, I just went to his friend list and cribbed it rather than try and dig up people on my own.

He started some writing and commenting, not much and not often. But it was there, every so often, getting his name and views into the public.

Then he started on Twitter. Mark is a Twitter master. It was Mark, in fact, working from the hugeamongous megarestaurant that is Carnivale, that first broke the news that ramps were coming to Chicago. Ramps -- that seasonal boutique-y chef favorite that journalists love to write about in conjuction with boutique-y cheffie restaurants ... not a place like Carnivale.

But Mark had begun to let us all know what he is about. On his own, not through a PR firm. He hunted and pecked his way, a few super hits and a few misses. He let us know his commitment to quality ingredients and farmers and the like. He let us know about the struggles of being a craftsman in a huge, hugely designed restaurant. And right now, the influencers of the food community are pointing their friends and followers to him.

I don't think Mark takes a ton of time with it. And he mostly just says stuff he really thinks needs to be said or maybe something that tickles his fancy. But participating in his own success is a big part of what he seems to be about. And, hum, it is working.

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No doubt Chef Mendez is making a name for himself by way of this new world of social media as well as by his cuisine. I saw this open letter yesterday and thought it was interesting how many people responded to it. Some of the responses had some undertones of frustration and anger that chefs experience on a day to day basis when it comes to young cooks.If I were to comment on the letter I would say that I liked half of it. Specifically, I like the half that sounded like that of a mentor and a chef who is interested in conveying some real pearls of wisdom to those apprentices who are willing to listen.I didn't care much for the accusatory part of the letter and the talk of an implied blacklist. Everyone grows up differently--some faster than others, some slower than others. A punk kid that gives two weeks notice and no shows before the two weeks is not uncommon. He knows that there have been plans in motion to replace him. When he shows up to work he probably feels defeated and not good about himself. He may have another opportunity lined up somewhere else and that place may have been pressuring him to start asap.I don't think bad mouthing a kid that's just starting off in the school of hard knocks is any good for your reputation as much as it is for his. You're the one with the wisdom and I think you demonstrated that with part of your open letter. The kid has not earned that wisdom and it's his loss. Let him move on and continue to make mistakes and/or continue to get better by experience. It's his loss that he moved on but it seems like he got under your skin--maybe that's what he wanted? For whatever reason--which may or may not have been justified--either way, he may be venting his frustration to others as well.

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