R.I.A. Unplugged

What chefs can learn from food TV: the bad

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I’ve known many successful chefs. Enough to form the opinion that success, and all that comes with it, can transform people.

Food TV personalities such as Paula Deen are prime examples. Deen had humble beginnings as a divorcee who, with her two young sons, began to put her life back together by starting a family catering business. Eventually, her little venture became so popular in her southern hometown that she opened a restaurant. Then, lo, one day Deen was discovered by a Food Network producer who liked her pluck. They gave her a show, and then another show, and in the meantime she acquired her dream house and a new husband, and even brought her two boys into the new family business, TV.

Well, you may be arguing, Paula is still Paula. She’s still the same butter-lovin’, giggly, sweet with a bit of spice, Southern dame she always was.

But is she? Really?

After I watched a recent episode of Paula’s Party in which she entertained Donald Trump’s son (yes, his name is Donald, too. How did you guess?), I would argue that she’s not quite as authentic as she used to be. The Don Jr.? Really?

The most important lesson for people whose stars are rising – whether you’re a chef in a four-star restaurant or a Southern gal who got a chance and ran with it – is to stay true to yourself. To my mind, if you’re Paula Deen, that means putting your foot down on whatever producer came up with the Don Jr. idea.

If you’re a chef, it means refusing to compromise your food and personality to suit the masses, your publicist, or anyone else who thinks they know you better.

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